by
Juzzzy
@ Wednesday, Nov. 22, 2006 - 04:55:20 pm
November 22, 2006
PART FOUR
1
ONCE, around fifteen years ago, when my grandmother used to live next door to my mother (cliched northerners? us?), my uncle came rushing in to say she'd collapsed onto the kitchen floor. He didn't think she was breathing. Call an ambulance.
At the time, me and a friend were the only people in. My friend phoned the ambulance and I rushed next door with my uncle. We went into the kitchen, which, as with many older people, was a sparse, old-fashioned affair. Free-standing kitchen units, a top-loading washing machine complete with mangle, an old teapot that probably had hybrid teaplants growing inside, sat on the sideboard with a stripey cosy snugly around it.
And there, on the cold, brown-tiled floor, was my grandmother, pale, unconscious, small. Her skin was almost see-through, her eyes closed, her mouth slightly ajar.
The words fell out of my mouth: "Have you checked for a pulse?"
And then her eyes flickered open, revealing a scared, bewildered expression - though not half as scared as I was when I thought she'd come back from the dead.
We got her to hospital where the doctors told us she'd suffered a massive heart attack, and that it was touch and go. My mother, who was down south visiting my father, was contacted.
And so me and my uncle stayed in the hospital for hours, sipping coffee in the waiting room and for some unknown reason getting an outrageous laughing/snotting/hysterics attack when we were approached by a well-meaning and sombre Indian doctor who wanted to update us on her condition.
And as is so often the case, she then rather brilliantly went on living for almost another decade, in rude health, all the while complaining, of course, that she'd had enough and wanted off this mortal coil.
Still, it was enough to make me think I'd seen a "dead" person in the flesh for the first time. And when my uncle eventually died at the turn of the millennium, and I went to see his body in the funeral home, the sight didn't distress or disturb me. If anything, I saw just a shell that had a face and beard just like my uncle's.
I don't believe in God, or life after death, but that day I did believe he was better off where he was, in that state, dead and peaceful, than he had been in life. Either way, I'd seen death for real, and it didn't frighten me. And I thought that would always be the case.
But back then, I'd never seen someone brutally murdered in front of me.
2
FULL MOON on Koh Samui is great the first time you're there. You spend all day getting hammered and sorting out your boat tickets across to Haad Rin (Sunrise Beach) on the neighbouring island, Koh Phan Ngan. You never get there before 11pm, and even that's too early, because you'll end up dancing like a lunatic until dawn aided by whatever stimulants you can get your hands on (and to anyone planning on going down that route, whatever you do, don't buy "anything" from a Thai at the Full Moon Party itself as you're more than likely buying off a policeman who will then bribe the utter bejaysus out of you...)
The second time's fun, too, because you're more familiar with your surroundings, you know all the pitfalls - (like, just for instance, not going home in just a pair of fisherman's pants and absolutely nothing else, including shoes, or keys, or sunglasses, because you've left them all in that really safe place you found in amongst 20,000 other off-their-face party-types equally seeking safe hiding places, copyright: Me) - and you're more able to relax.
After a while, though, it gets a bit dull. I'd pretty much spent my late teens and entire twenties in a permanent Full Moon Party anyway, so I got a bit blase about it all. And bored. So when I ended up running a beach bar on Samui, and Full Moon came along, I was more than happy to stay put and supply nice drinks to grown ups who didn't want the madness of Full Moon.
It was great, too. I'd play Sinatra and Bacharach and jazz and (weirdly) Cafe del Mar, and serve cocktails on the beach as the customers lay on mats watching the low, white moon and the resulting waves lap up near to their feet.
It wasn't so great when my latest best friends - the tourists who'd been on the island for a week and thought this mad English nutter living in a hut wile stranded a zillion miles from home was just marvellous - would turn up wankered at 5.30am banging on my bedroom door asking me to open the door. But then I'd been one of them at one time, so I'd inevitably end up pouring the Sangsom Cokes anyway.
At the end of the summer of 2004, Full Moon had come around again, and as usual I was to take care of the bar. My Thai colleague, Bum, a cheeky little Rasta with a penchant for marajuana, ecstasy and the contents of Western women's underwear, was devastated. He had no money to buy drugs for the party, which as far as he was concerned meant there was no point in going at all. His friend, Nin, a somewhat dimwitted 19-year-old who worked a couple of bars down from us, apparently wasn't going either. And neither was Ben, a stocky 20-year-old former footballer who'd lost his way through drink, dope and petty crime.
All three were from the southern province of Nakhon Si Thammarat, generally regarded as an area of malcontents hellbent on a life of slobbery and thievery (Merseyside, anyone?), but with whom I got on like a house on fire. (Well, apart from when they deliberately fed me a curry made out of endangered lizard, anyway, but that's another story).
Before dusk, which in Samui is like the lights being switched off in the sky around 6.30pm, Nin wandered along the beach. He had cotton wool and Band Aid plastered over his right eye and temple. Bum and Ben began chattering away in Thai, too fast and too southern for me to really understand what was going on. They didn't include me. But something was definitely afoot.
The tourists made for the north of the island to drink and wait for their speedboats to Haad Rin. I waved the boys off to go and have fun: the beach was empty and I was happy not to have them sit there and smoke my cigarettes all night. I even found time for a guilty Western-style feast - some leftover rice, a tin of tuna, a splosh of naam plaa (fish sauce, which they use like we use salt) and a thundering of white pepper.
Yes, I was a little poor.
Around midnight, I had just two customers sat on the beach, which suited me fine. It looked beautiful, though - we had lanterns surrounding our patch, with palm leaves planted in the sand, and billowing white drapes dotted around to provide privacy (and not a bit of style, I should add). The moon was high and the sea, though a little rough, was like a vast, shining white plain before us. Idyllic.
Bum reappeared, on his own. Sat down next to me with a beer, and handed me one, too. He was distracted. Stoned, for sure, but there was something else. His eyes, normally bright and open and full of mischief, were black and thin, and full of danger.
We sat there for a while, sharing a few beers, Bum smoking all my fags, wondering if it was such a good idea to stay on a deserted beach after all.
Then, Bum spoke. "Tonight, Dut-Tin," he said. "You see me very angry."
And then all hell let loose.
3
FROM the corner of my eyes, I can see a sudden flurry of movement on the beach, some 200 yards to my right.
Shadows dancing past the lanterns and beachfires.
I hear a scream; a shout. More raised voices.
I can hear, but not see, the frantic running heading towards our beach, thumping along the sand.
Then the shadows are 20 yards away, passing before me, past me.
And Bum is leaping out of his seat, now with a heavy stick used for wedging open the kitchen shutters that I hadn't noticed before.
Now he's gone, like a cheetah, sprinting after the trio on the beach.
He catches them quickly, as the leader has fallen.
Or has he fallen?
I'm watching, transfixed.
Dull, solid thuds of wood on flesh.
Two, three, four, flashes of metal glinting in the moonlight.
Screams.
Thuds.
Slicing noises.
A puncture.
Then nothing.
Then.
Three faces - Nin, Bum, Ben - running towards me, scared.
"Close the bar!" says Bum. "Now!
Then he's gone, with the others, into the jungle behind me. Shadows into shadows.
And then it's quiet again, apart from the waves.
4
I'M RUNNING down the beach to the couple sharing drinks.
Telling them to go.
Refusing their money.
Saying they've seen nothing.
Go. Now!
Then I'm frantically extinguishing lanterns. Leaving out the mats and chairs and tables and branches and drapes.
And I'm diving - diving - into the bar, yanking the electrics from the wall.
I get a shock from the wiring, go tumbling backwards.
The PA dies immediately. The lights go out.
Now I'm throwing all the spirits into the beer chest. Hands shaking, trying to lock it.
Then I'm running away from the bar. Through the hotel grounds to our left.
Out onto the main street.
Where the armed police are already arriving on their motorbikes.
And I'm remembering with an intensity I've never known before that I am completely illegal in this country.
5
"ADAM" was also from Nakhon Si Thammarat. Like so many other people from that province, he had fallen - or thrown himself - on hard times. A former kick-boxing champion (as so many of them are; Muay Thai (Thai boxing) is their equivalent of soccer to us), he is now on the run from the police.
Like so many of his countrymen, he heads for the tourist resorts, where he can get an unpaid but fed and watered job hiding out on the beach. Any money he has comes from tips, or from gambling those tips. Adam is older than the boys. Thirty-something, maybe. He likes the Sangsom Thai whisky. Often drunk, always lazy, always rude and bullish to the younger men.
Then one night, he and Nin - both of whom had been working at Black Coffee Bar - had an argument over who slept where.
Adam was fed up lying on the beach at night. He wanted Nin's bed. Nin, drunk and stoned, had refused.
Nin didn't have a chance.
The bottle had crashed into the right side of his face, almost blinding his eye.
The next night, Adam was dead.
It eventually emerged he had been on the run from the police because he was alleged to have raped a 14-year-old girl.
6
BEN hid out on the island, in the jungle, for two days before he was eventually spirited away by boat to the mainland. He can never return to Samui. Too many enemies with too many long memories.
Bum and Nin took a motorbike and fled in the night, heading for the ferry at Nathon, the island's capital.
But they ran out of petrol.
And so they walked.
And stopped in a 7/11 for cigarettes.
Where a policeman matched the Rasta description and arrested them both, there and then, at gunpoint.
Mikkel and I went to see them in prison. A room the size of a scout hut with about 200 half-naked men inside. No air-con. Half a dozen or so of them westerners. Everyone with shaved heads, and wearing leg-irons.
After four months, Bum was allowed out when a "friend" paid his bail.
A fourth killer, a respectable Thai married to a Westerner, was never even interviewed, even though everyone on the island who knew anything about the murder knew who'd done it.
7
I WAKE up in my friend, Ishbel's, room.
She's English, but she's also gone native.
She goes down to the bar and to her astonishment everything is operating as normal.
So I follow her down there.
The boss is non-plussed.
The body is long gone.
The blood has washed away.
And, most importantly, the tourists don't know.
The couple on the beach will be too scared to say anything, he predicts, correctly.
"So, Juzzz-tin," says my boss, with a wide, toothy grin. "We have a party tonight, no?"